Pruning should follow a definite plan. Consider the reason or purpose before cutting begins.

By making the pruning cuts in a certain order, the total number of cuts can be greatly reduced. The first objective is to remove all dead, broken, diseased or problem limbs by cutting them at the point of origin or back to a strong lateral branch or shoot. Often, removing this material opens the canopy sufficiently so that no further pruning is necessary.

The next step in pruning is to make any training cuts needed. By cutting back lateral branches, the tree or shrub is trained to develop a desired shape, allowing it to fill in open areas caused by storm or wind damage, or to fit a given area.  Always avoid destroying the natural shape or growth habit of a tree when pruning unless you're keeping a close watch over the tree and can assess its health. After a period of time, it will attempt to assume the more natural growth habit, leading into the next round of pruning to train limbs.

Make additional corrective prunings to eliminate weak or narrow crotches and remove the less desirable central leader where double leaders occur. After these cuts have been made, it's good to stand back and take a look at the work. Are there any other corrective pruning cuts necessary? If the amount of wood removed is considerable, further pruning may need to be delayed a year or so. Remove water sprouts unless needed to fill a hole or to shade a large limb until other branches develop.